LEATHER CARE
Well-Cared-For Leather Lasts for Generations
“It belonged to my grandfather.” We hear this often. If you take care of your leather, it will last for generations.
And it is not particularly difficult; it just requires a tiny bit of discipline to get the job done.
Keep Your Leather Alive
It is all about the moisture in the leather. Leather is a natural material that contains natural oils, and in a way, it is still alive. It is our job to keep it alive. Therefore, we must keep it clean, not overfeed it – and not let it die of thirst.
Leather is exposed to various elements during daily use, and it can also be seasonal. The most significant impacts come from moisture or drying out. We must help our leather maintain its balance. If it dries out, it becomes stiff and risks cracking, and if it remains wet for too long, it can mold or, even worse, rot.
When Your Leather Gets Wet
It is inevitable that leather goods used outdoors will get wet. Well-conditioned leather does not suffer from this, but it still requires attention when you return home.
When leather gets wet, the moisture binds with the oils inside the leather. As the water evaporates, it can draw the oils out, leaving the leather brittle and dry. Water can also strip away some of the dyes in the leather, leaving spots on the surface.
It is very important that you allow the leather to dry naturally when it gets wet. You should never force-dry leather using a heater or a fireplace. Let it hang in a dry, ventilated area at normal indoor room temperature.
Do not leave your leather outdoors if it is cold or if the humidity is high. The leather will not dry, and it will mold relatively quickly.
In our closed gun cases, we have incorporated a ventilation eyelet alongside the strap at the bottom of the case. This allows any moisture transferred from the firearm to the shearling lining on a rainy hunting day to evaporate when hung to dry.
Once the leather is completely dry, it is thirsty. And then it needs to be oiled again.
We do not recommend waterproofing your leather with water-repellent products like silicone or sprays that “seal the leather in”. These products seal the leather’s pores and cause it to dry out. Waterproofing will also prevent you from conditioning the leather in the future.
If Your Leather Dries Out
This probably will not happen to your specific leather goods because you take great care of them. But if you happen to get your hands on a mature, bone-dry leather product from your grandparents that you want to revive because it is completely dried out and perhaps cracked… – there is still hope!
When repairing very dry leather, we initially use the necessary amounts of products such as Neatsfoot Oil (see below). And it can require quite a lot. Dry leather absorbs an extreme amount of oil before it becomes supple and gorgeous again.
This process will darken the leather significantly, but dry leather lightens over the years, so we will likely hit the original color quite accurately.
Cleaning Dirty or Worn Leather
Start with a damp cloth and remove all loose surface dirt from areas like the bottom of gun cases, which are often placed on the ground during transport between hunting drives.
Next, apply a leather cleaner to a lint-free cloth. Gently massage the cleaner over the leather to remove any remaining grime, focusing on heavily soiled or stained areas. (Always test the leather cleaner on an inconspicuous area first. Products vary, as does the intensity of their effect).
Once you have completely removed the dirt, allow the leather to finish drying completely.
Never use harsh soaps or strong chemicals for cleaning or stain removal. This can lead to discoloration, dehydration, cracking, and grease build-up. Never use water to remove grease stains, as you will only spread them over a larger surface area.
Conditioning
Conditioning is the process of getting the leather into its proper “condition” or state. The process adds moisture and nourishment to the leather and its internal fibers. Leather has a tendency to dry out, crack, or peel over time. With new leather, conditioning helps keep the surface soft and flexible, preventing dehydration. The conditioning method will depend on the type of leather I used when crafting your leather goods.
To condition your regularly used leather, apply a small amount of balm to a lint-free cloth and then gently rub it in a thin, even layer. Never spray or apply leather balm directly onto the leather. If you do, there is a risk that the leather will over-absorb the balm right where you start. Apply it to a cloth first, and work it into the leather from there. (Test your leather balm in a less visible spot first).
Allow the balm to dry for at least two hours, or overnight if time permits. Then, gently buff away any excess balm. For older or severely dry leather, you may need to apply a small amount of leather grease first and allow it to penetrate/dry before finishing with the balm.
Storing Your Leather Goods
Follow these few pieces of advice to maintain the shape, moisture, and condition of the leather if it is to be stored for an extended period – for example, between hunting seasons.
This advice is for the long-term storage of your leather goods and does not apply to items in daily use. (Please note that these tips apply to saddle leather and heavier leather goods, not to suede, thin deerskin, etc.).
- Wipe down with a damp microfiber cloth to remove dust and dirt.
- Apply leather grease or balm in generous amounts. Allow it to absorb for 30+ minutes, ideally in a warm place and away from direct sunlight. Then, remove any excess grease or balm.
- Stuff your leather goods with acid-free paper to help them maintain their shape.
- Avoid storing in plastic bags or airtight containers, which can trap moisture and cause mold; use breathable dust bags or paper instead.
- Store the item in a temperature-stable environment that is cool and dry, on a flat surface with room to breathe, or alternatively hang it up to preserve the product’s shape.
- Keep your leather goods separated during storage – even if they are all made of leather!_
Products
Leather Cleaner and Saddle Soap
Leather cleaning products come in different strengths, which vary in how aggressive they are toward your leather. Depending on the level of dirt or contamination, you should always choose the mildest option. Saddle soap is a very popular product originally developed to clean saddles and harnesses. These are items made from heavy leather, and you should be aware that when the leather dries after being cleaned with saddle soap, it dries out further and will require more grease or balm afterward. However, some saddle soaps contain a certain amount of conditioner, so read the label first.
Neatsfoot Oil
Neatsfoot Oil is a natural, yellow oil produced from the shin bones and feet (but not the hooves) of cattle. The word “neat” in the oil’s name comes from an Old English word for cattle. Neatsfoot oil is used as a conditioning, softening, and preservative supplement for leather. Among other things, it is used to revitalize very dry leather and to soften materials like heavy bridal leather.
Leather Cream and Leather Grease
I use leather cream to condition the surface of pre-finished/dyed leather types. Leather grease is applied to untreated saddle leather prior to assembly. In fact, I often apply leather grease in generous, excess amounts to our saddle leather goods and subsequently heat it so that it is absorbed deeper into the leather. This achieves a more effective prevention against drying out.
Wax
I use natural beeswax on many of our leather goods. IMPORTANT: ONLY as an edge finish on straps or the open sides of saddle leather. NOT on surface areas.
Edge paint is a surface treatment that protects the edges but does not penetrate the leather in the same way that wax does.
Be Careful with Wax on Surfaces Other Than Shoes
Wax and wax-based products sit as a “coating” on the surface of the leather and eventually clog its pores, preventing it from breathing. The leather is then susceptible to rot or extreme dryness underneath the wax layer. Wax is also difficult to remove from the leather’s surface once it has been applied. We therefore recommend avoiding wax and wax-based products for this very reason. Use grease instead.
(When used on items like shoes, it is not the same problem since it wears off relatively quickly).
Contact
You can always call me at +45 26 24 80 80 or send an email to contact@kumler-handcrafted.com